I realize this is both a controversial and bold statement and likely one that is impossible to prove, just like it’s impossible for sommeliers to prove wines contain aromas and flavours of minerality. Like them, I just know it. I'll do my best to defend my position, but I encourage others to chime in and challenge my assertions.
Let me start by saying I am quite biased in my view. My mother's family was from Burgundy. They lived in a little village near Chablis called Noyers that I have visited on a few occasions. It is charming, quiet, and historic like so many tucked away in every corner of France. My great uncle Rico was a ‘Noyerer’ until he passed away at 102 years of age. Each day he walked the entirety of the village, ate his lunch at the local restaurant with other townsfolk, and drank a glass of Chablis. He had two wives and never wore glasses. I attribute his long life to the former three activities. The first great wine I had in my life was a Chardonnay. It was a 1986 François Ravenneau 1er Cru Chablis Montée de Tonnerre and I drank it with my wife in 1992. It was absolutely, heart-stoppingly good and it changed my world. I had just completed my certified sommelier training in Toronto and moved out west to Vancouver to explore opportunities. If there was even the tiniest shred of a doubt that I would devote my life to wine, it was instantly dispelled. Great wines can do that.
Many claim that Riesling is, in fact, the greatest white grape on the planet because of its innate ability to carry to the glass the character of the terroir in which it is grown. Riesling has scintillating acidity and lovely fruit intensity. It can be made as a bone dry or extremely sweet wine. It can be still or sparkling and the best versions age for decades. The only problem is relatively few people drink it and only a small number of regions of the world are capable or making great wines from it. I love Riesling on certain occasions but for everyday drinking, I’m a Chard man.
Chardonnay has a great story. Not only does it grow in practically every wine-producing country on earth making it widely available to masses of wine drinkers, but it can also produce perfectly drinkable inexpensive plonk or the greatest and most expensive wines on the planet. If you have ever sampled a great Montrachet from Leflaive, a Kumeu River from New Zealand, or a Domaine de la Côte from Santa Rita Hills, you’ll understand what I’m saying. Of course, like any grape variety there are plenty of awful versions out there too, but the beauty of Chardonnay is choice, choice, choice. You can spend $3 or $300. You can have feather-lite and simple, fruity, rich and complex, woody, stony, still, or sparkling. While sweet Chardonnay is a bit of a rarity, there are some producers of inexpensive, commercial Chardonnay that may leave 8-12 grams of sugar to enhance the fruit character and ease of drinking. Chardonnay also grows on a wide variety of soils. While it is most celebrated on limestone or chalky soils, very good versions can be grown on sandy, loamy, or gravelly soils too.
Champagne makes arguably the best and most age worthy sparkling wines, typically labelled Blanc de Blancs, and made entirely from Chardonnay. Try finding Blanc des Millenaires from Heidsieck or Lanson Noble Blanc de Blancs. If you’ve got a few extra hundreds of dollars laying around, you might opt for a Krug Clos de Mesnil or Salon. As for still wines, there are pristine, mineral-rich, nervous, energetic whites with moderate alcohol from places like Chablis, France or Prince Edward County, Ontario. If you prefer a slightly richer mouthfeel without the smell and taste of new oak, you can opt for a Chardonnay with lees contact. This is where the yeast cells, now perished post alcoholic fermentation, are allowed to remain in the wine during a period of aging. During this time, the yeast cells autolyze, or self-digest, breaking down into wonderful aromas of fresh bread dough and biscuit. This autolysis also adds mid-palate richness to the wines. There are plenty of good versions in Niagara, Ontario or from the cool coastal vineyards in South Africa, New Zealand, or Chile. Another common technique to enhance the body of the wine is malolactic fermentation. In this process, the sharp, aggressive malic acid is naturally converted to the creamier, softer lactic acid through the help of bacteria. Not only does this give the wines a slightly smoother, creamy mouthfeel, but it also adds a sometimes-intriguing buttery diacetyl aroma which complements the apple, pear, nut, and biscuit aromas perfectly. For many, the greatest expression of Chardonnay is one with plenty of new oak character. Great wines with extreme complexity can be enhanced by aging in a percentage of small, new oak barrels. New French oak barrels add clove and baking spice, vanilla, toasty wood, and lovely earthy notes to the wines. New American oak barrels add coconut, sweet, candied vanilla, and dill aromas. The fact that Chardonnay comes from so many places, in so many styles means you’ll have endless food pairing possibilities too. Many think of great Chablis with escargots in butter, garlic and parsley while others might opt for prestigious Côte de Beaune wines with lobster tail and drawn butter. Imagine for a minute the beef eater who wants to drink white wine – what to suggest? Buttery versions of Chardonnay reintroduce fat and moisture to roast or grilled steak, especially when the meat’s fat has been mostly rendered during longer cooking. One of my favourite pairings is great Canadian aged Cheddar with Chardonnay. The flavours are perfectly harmonized and the acid and fruit in the wine cleanses and refreshes the palate with each sip. Sparkling Chardonnay is also heaven with high-fat, soft cheeses like triple cream Brie. Even the ubiquitous Caesar Salad has a friend in a lemony, aromatic new world Chardonnay.
If that wasn’t proof enough, there is almost half a million acres of Chardonnay planted on earth. Only the lowly Airen exceeds that, and it’s grown mostly to produce Spanish brandy. Chardonnay suits every white and even some red moods. It’s a beautiful marriage of mother nature’s generosity and mans know-how. Well-executed, it can be one of the most profound and complex wines on earth and even at it’s worst, it’s generally still drinkable. Not many varieties can claim that.
There are many regions out there producing excellent Chardonnay – too many to name. The best way to taste the remarkable range of styles available is to attend the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration on July 18 to 21 (www.coolchardonnay.org). Chardonnay of all styles and price points from around the world are featured. In the meantime, here is a wonderful local version that hits all the right buttons. It's got wonderful pure fruit expression, deft winemaking, a razor sharp backbone of gorgeous acidity, and pristine balance and all that comes at a very reasonable price. It's sure to put a smile on your face just as it did mine. Find it at www.maenadwines.com/
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